12.15.10 by Stacy
Cocktail Talk with Andrew Noye
We gave the Blackberry Farm mixologist a topic — stone fruits aren’t just for jams anymore — and asked him to discuss. Part 2 of a 5-part mixology series on using Mother Nature’s finest more innovatively. Go ahead, read amongst yourselves.
Stone fruits take a deep dive into the world of mixology. In Part 3 of a 5-part series, Blackberry Farm’s Andrew Noye discusses how he uses them in cocktails in every form from bitters to purées.
served raw: how are you using stone fruits innovatively and what impact does it have on flavor?
Andrew Noye: Stone fruits are really quite lovely. I personally love to eat them when the season is right. Many people just can’t wait until the summer to get their hands on some melons, but I can’t wait for stone fruits. Plums and cherries are my favorites, next in line is peach, but in bitters form. I think that the most unusual way we have been using stone fruits recently is in preserve form. Maggie Davidson, our preservationist and her crew made some delicious preserves from Carolina peaches and I was fortunate enough to snag a few jars. Using peach preserves to make cocktails gives you a tremendous amount of flavor, especially if you’re using ones that are fresh and made from the best fruit possible. The preserves will give you a touch of sweetness, richness and mouth feel. It’s almost like using fresh fruit to make a cobbler.
We’ve also been using cherries in the form of moonshine cherries — using legal moonshine of course. The little critters are great to use in a manhattan or old fashioned. They give a more realistic cherry flavor than maraschino cherries do with a little extra kick at the end. They make the drink a little darker in character, but at the same time a little more centered.
are there any off-the-radar varieties you’re using?
We don’t try and go crazy with varieties. In our garden and orchards we grow heirloom varieties. John Coykendall, our master gardener, and Jeff Ross, our garden manager, do a wonderful job keeping us stocked with fresh fruits and vegetables, not only from our garden but the surrounding area. Jeff is a great forager and he constantly brings new things to play with.
how can you use this type of fruit to enhance the flavor profile and/or create balance?
Stone fruits, especially peaches have such a wonderful perfume. Many smell more intense and sweet than they taste. I love to use peach bitters in a drink to just add another level. When you tilt the glass to take a sip and you get your nose in there and get that whiff of peach it can really be something. Dimi, is also a great product to use to get that wonderful perfume of peach. This is an Italian product, that is grappa blend with vodka and then flavored with both white peaches and elderflower.
what’s your favorite signature flight of stone fruit cocktails?
This fall we had a great duo of peach cocktails on the list. We started out with just one, the Preserved Peach & Brandy Cure All. But we couldn’t leave well enough alone, so we created it an evil twin, The Warm Preserved Peach & Brandy Cure All. One cold and one hot. It was a great experiment of how temperature effect flavors. This was the brain child of Jesse Ratliff, one of my bartenders.
Warm Brandy & Peach Cure All
- Add to rocks glass in order:
- 1 tablespoon Blackberry Farm Peach Preserves
- 1 1/2 ounces Germain Robin Brandy
- 1/4 ounce (a splash) Amaretto
- 1 1/2 ounces hot water
- Stir 2 to 3 times, garnish with long lemon twist over glass.
Preserved Peach & Brandy Cure All
- Add to cocktail shaker:
- 1 ounce Blackberry Farm Peach Preserve Purée
- 2 ounces Germain Robin Brandy
- Splash Amaretto
- Hard shake a 10 count, double strain into chilled cocktail glass.